While in Ventura for the 2012 Triiibes/Linchpin Retreat, I
had my first surfing lesson. After
growing up in Florida with proximity to lots of open water (Gulf and bays), I
was reminded how much I miss being in the water.
I also remembered how elemental the ocean really is. The Gulf has its moments mainly triggered by
severe storms. The Pacific is even more capricious.
Listening to my instructor Jeff Belzer, describe the breaking
of the waves, the change from north to south based on wind and tides and
identifying the rip tides reminded me of
the respect that any body of water should be given.
Facing and going through a two foot breaking wave was much
different than seeing the same wave from
shore. Feeling the power of the wave and
the pull as it washed back was sobering
At its best or worst, nature is a neutral player. But it is also unforgiving.
